Day 3: Heading south
103 km and 751 m climbing
Sunrise in January is around 7:45. The bird songs wake me up before official sunrise.
The bar of the camp site opens only at 8:30. And all the people who works on the camp site gather at this time to drink their morning espresso and that’s why i am queuing as well.
When i reach the densely populated area of Cascais , i decide to put my bike on the train to Lisbon. Two times the same path, together with a lot of traffic does not feels attractive. The trip of 40 km is only 2,5 euro for me. The bike can travel for free. And there is plenty of space for the bike.
The train station of Lisbon is connected with the ferry lines to the other side of the river Taag.
I take the ferry to Cacilhas, my bike travels again for free.
In the harbour of Cacilhas as big submarine is open for a visit.
Santuario de Nossa Senhora do Cabo Espichel
The first 30 km i have to cycle on the main motorway, with a lot of busses, trucks and cars. It is still a densely populated area. But i have to pass it to get in the more rural and green area’s.
After a specific roundabout i take a turn to the right and all trafic seems to disappear. I am alone with a forest full of cork oaks, partially stripped.
My main goal of the day was to reach another viewpoint on the cliffs like yesterday, however a bit more to the southeast.
I am virtually alone on this place, however the massive parking space suggests that there can be crowded moments as well.
My plan/hope was to eat in the small cafe besides the church. However, it is closed. So i cycle to the Lighthouse one cliff further.
Lighthouse Cabo Espichel
Farol do Cabo Espichel
You have to be careful when cycling over the cliffs, all of sudden the road stops and you could fall 100 m into the Rocky sea.
Lunch time with a view! I finish my stock of bread, cheese, tomatoes and dried abricots. Ready for the last 25 km of the day.
Local ‘Mercado’s’
Along the road i make a stop in a small mercado of supermarket (although, super?). A colour local experience, with a lot of old people and very tasty fruit. I do a refill of my food buffer as i am heading for a very isolated camp site in the hills.
Camping Picheleiros
10 km of gravel road along a GR walking path brings me to a camping site. My initial plan was to go to sesimbra , however the municipality camping dont allow tents anymore since covid. I could not see the logic. As a result i found a brilliant cycle path through beautiful nature. The smell of spring makes me high.
Beside 1 couple and two year round inhabitants of the camp site , i am the only one that night.
Only 3 km from the campsite is a village at the edge of the forest , with some restaurants. On the map it looked easy. In reality it became the most steep climb i ever did with my bike. My wheels are spinning in the gravel. Luckily i am without the bags. But it makes me wonder how to leave this camp site tomorrow.
The reward of the hard work is great. Although I figured out that all restaurants only opens at 19 h, i found a bakery which also serves wine (only in Portugal) for an apetizer. At 19 o’ clock i move to a restaurant. I am surprised with the high quality and very low price (12 euro) of grilled swordfish.
Although the road back home was steep downhill , still it was an adventure in the inkt black night. Luckily i have very strong lights to guide me between the holes and stones.
Looking forward to the trip of tomorrow!
