Day 1: Kirkenes to Neiden via Russian border
77 km and 800 m climbing
Russian border
The link between both sides of the border is King Crab. Once released in the sea by Russian scientists in the area in order to make another economic boost in the area. Past decades, Russia and Norway managed the quota together in good collaboration. Today, two Russian King Crab fishing boats are stuck in the harbor of kirkenes. And the local technicians refuse to repair Russian boats anymore.
I noticed that every conversation switches immediately to the topic Russia. And how they are not liked (anymore). Almost the whole area is military area. And your have to stay on the road.
Before heading West, i choose to make a detour to the Russian border. To take this point as my most Eastern point of the journey, and out of curiosity how the atmosphere would be around this area.
To my surprise it is signposted as a cycling path, there is a bike path besides the road which is big enough for a car. And there live a lot (relatively for the area…) of people. The infrastructure is perfect and new. The views amazing.
The border is just an ordinary gate with a fence. To my upmost surprise, the border appeared to be open. A Russian car returned to Russia. And i learned from the owner of the souvenir shop that also EU people could enter (if you were crazy!). He told me that it was the only border crossing that is open between Russia and NATO area.
The shop owner was a character, so we had a whole conversation about biking, Russia and living in the area. He sells all kinds of Sovjet souvenirs, so I asked if he was Russian. “Your bike bags are German, however I am sure you don’t see yourself as a German” was his response. Followed by his outspoken view about the Russian people.
” Only you and the Russian maffia do take pictures of me!”, Was his response when i asked if i could take a picture. Followed by some strong stories.
His dream? Cycling from Kirkenes to Berlin. What was withholding him? Work! However he started to doubt a bit and asked a lot about the equipment. Who knows…
On the way to the Russian border a noticed a hidden swimming area a bit away from the road. I made a mental note to stop her for lunch.
Which I did! I took immediately a dive into the lake, as it was already 31 c in this area. The water was ice cold, but it was one of my best swims ever. I gave me a temperature reset for the second part of the day: the trip to Neiden. Which was full of very steep hills.
Ä´vv Skolt Sámi museum
This part of the road was much more isolated. Very few houses on this part. However, every time with a stunning view on the fjord. The temperature remained around 30 c which made it a very thirsty part. Luckily I arranged extra bottles of water before starting.
And on every corner there were Rendeer grazing and watching how i was climbing the steep hills.
When I finally reached a Neiden, i discovered that it was not really a village. More a point where you could choose between een road to Finland or Norway. Nevertheless, for some reason this was the ideal place for a museum about the native people: the Sami.
I arrived 30 min before closing time. Coffee and tea appeared to be included in the ticket price. However when the lady watched me, she went for a bottle of ice cold water.
The exhibition was small but beautiful, and followed by a set of nice paintings and wood carvings.
There were even 3 other visitors drinking coffee.
Neiden Kirke
The place was known for a church as well, however i learned that i had to make a detour of another 3 km. Which went steep downhill. The whole ride I was doubting if i made a good decision. However when i arrived in the evening sun, the feeling was immediately gone. The building was a picture in itself with a special graveyard in the garden. A special vibe as well.
The 3 visitors of the museum arrived as well. And one approached me to share some facts about the church. I learned he was a Frenchmen with a British accent, a remarkable combination. He was very proud when i made a positive comment about it. The start of more stories.
Neiden fjellstue Aksjeselskap (campsite)
On the road to Finland I found a lovely campsite near a river famous for fly fishing to end my day. My camp spot resembles a painting of the museum I noticed.
As a welcome surprise, i discovered they had a restaurant on the camp site. Famous for salmon, so famous that it run out of stock that day. However they recommended me a Rendeer carbonade with some power food. I believe i looked a bit exhausted. The tip was a good one, this will bring me tomorrow to Tuna Bru, 100 km further down the road.
This day was a perfect start of the trip, curious what’s next.
