Day 4: Finding sunshine
The morning sun remains well hidden by a dense fog. The visibility is very low, a change of plans is needed. The original plan was a hike to the ‘floating lake’, however with those weather conditions we wouldn’t see much of this natural spectacle.
The owner of the guesthouse predicts that the fog will remain for the rest of the day, given the wind direction. And he advises to go east and/or north to have any chance for some visibility.
Tórshavn
Therefore, we return to the capital for a visit to the city center. Which is basically two streets on a rock in the see. The last house of the row is the prime minister of the faroer islands.
At the start of the street there is one of the two restaurants of a two star Michelin chef. We learn that one of the two restaurants is temporary closed as they moved to Greenland. Exclusivity to the max.
We watch a ferry to Iceland which is offloading the cars of touristst travelling from the mainland to Iceland. The make a 2-3 day stopover on the faroer. We will see all of sudden all kinds of European car plates om the faroerian roads.
Next stop is the natural-historical museum of faroer. An remarkable storyline of isolated villages living from bird catching on the cliffs, breeding sheeps on the steep hills near the cliffs, whale hunting and building houses with wood found at the shore as there are no trees growing on the islands.
Many pictures from the time when the boats were still made of wood and the man of steel.
The ticket of the museum also gave entrance to an original farm 1 km down the road.
The house is about 100 years old and very charming. It gives a very good feel of the live of (fortunate) farmers.
Tjørnuvík
In Torshavn there are low hanging clouds. Better than our camp site. But no sun yet. We decide to head north, following one of the last roads we did not visit yet. To the last village of the road, Tjornuvik.
There is a small parking space, and traffic s lights 5 km before the village only allow the number of cars that fits in the parking space.
The suns breaks through the clouds when we arrive. The village is a starting point of a heroic hike to Saksun. But then we should do the hike twice to return to our car, a Saksun is serious detour from this place. We take the village hike along the coast.
Because there is sun and a beach, the place nominates itself to the ideal spot to make a dive into the ocean. I made a quick dive into the ice cold sea water and feel revived.
Fossá
Yesterday we skipped the waterfall Fossa, but with the support of the sun we found a new opportunity to make here a stop of a one hour hike. The waterfall has two stages. For the top one, we have follow a small and hidden sheep trail. The view is superb.
It is even possible to walk under the waterfall, a special experience.
Trælanípa
When we return on the camp site, we notice that the weather improved somewhat. We decide to give the hike to the floating lake a shot.
A straight path brings us to the cliffs, with impressive views over the ocean.
There is a viewpoint where you can see the biggest lake of the island ‘floating’ above the Atlantic ocean. Separated by 100-200 m high cliffs.
At the end of the path, there the lake is overflowing to the ocean via a big waterfall.
We close the day a the camp site with a nice dark blue scenery, a silter ocean with only the lights of the boat connected to the fish farm.