Wheels on water: A 3-Day cycling odyssey across the Dutch Wadden Islands

There’s something timeless about the rhythm of cycling—your own breath syncing with the turns of the pedals, your mind tuned to nature’s quiet symphony. And when that rhythm takes you across the shifting shores of the Wadden Islands in the Netherlands, it becomes more than a journey. It becomes a story. A solo adventure. A reflection of freedom.

Day 1: Vledder to Terschelling – Following the wind north

My journey began in the quiet village of Vledder, tucked between meadows and forests. After a serene early ride to the Steenwijk train station, my bike and I boarded the train to Leeuwarden. From there, I pedaled northwest toward Harlingen, the coastal town that serves as the launchpad to the Wadden Sea.

In Harlingen, I boarded the ferry to Terschelling, one of the gems of the Wadden archipelago. With my tent stowed and bike tuned, I set off to explore the island. I cycled all the way to Noordkaap, the northernmost tip—an amusing namesake nod to the North Cape of Norway, where I had once ended another epic ride along the Atlantic coast.

That night, I camped under the soft glow of the stars, the salt breeze whispering through the dunes. Terschelling, I realized, is a microcosm of Dutch nature: forests, grassy plains, wetlands, and endless beaches. It’s like cycling through a national geography documentary.

Day 2: From Sea to Seal – Vlieland’s hidden beauty

In the shoulder seasons, the ferry route from Terschelling to Vlieland is no longer direct, so I returned to Harlingen and transferred boats. A minor detour, but well worth it.

Vlieland is smaller and more intimate than Terschelling. I spent the day weaving across nearly every cycle path the island offered. The forest paths opened to windswept dunes, and the landscape felt like a dream you don’t want to wake up from.

In the Kroon’s Polder, I lingered for hours watching birds. Egrets, oystercatchers, and the ever-watchful curlew. It’s a birder’s paradise, but even as a casual observer, I found the marshland meditative.

That evening, I camped at Staatsbosbeheer’s “De Lange Paal”, a beautifully basic site nestled in the island’s natural heart.

Day 3: Vliehors Crossing – Texel’s dramatic entrance

Day 3: Vliehors Crossing – Texel’s Dramatic Entrance
Sunday brought the most surreal moment of the trip. Vlieland doesn’t connect directly to Texel by a regular ferry. Instead, you board an amphibious-like yellow truck with your fellow travelers and bikes (five in my case). The journey cuts across Vliehors, a vast sandy military training ground that looks more lunar than Dutch.

Eventually, the truck drives straight into the sea.

There, on a sandbar rising from the Wadden Sea, a ship is anchored—De Vriendschap, fittingly named “The Friendship.” With the tide shifting quickly, passengers must embark swiftly, the ship nestled in shallow water while playful seals curiously circle around.

Texel welcomed me with open roads. I rode directly to the ferry in the south, bound for Den Helder, where I visited my in-laws on the beach at Groote Keeten before catching the train from Schagen home.

Reflections from the Road

Three days. Nearly 300 kilometers. Alone with a bike, a tent, and the sea as companion. Each island offered a different voice:

Terschelling: wild, expansive, a showcase of Dutch biodiversity.

Vlieland: cozy, intimate, and perfect for slow pedaling and birdwatching.

Texel: welcoming and lively, the largest and best connected of the trio.

And while I’ve cycled stretches of the North Sea Cycle Route in the UK, France, Belgium, and the Atlantic Coast from Norway to Portugal, these Wadden Islands felt like an untapped chapter in the saga—offering deep solitude, logistical adventure, and pure natural beauty.

What I carried: Simplicity
The gear was simple. My trusty Ortlieb panniers, a tent, snacks, layers for the shifting weather. I fueled myself with hearty breakfasts (banana, muesli, yogurt, coffee), quick seafood sandwiches along the way (those tiny shrimps in Dutch rolls—delightful!), and fresh sea air.

A word to fellow bikepackers
If you’re drawn to solitude, nature, and the magic of transitions—land to water, sea to sky—the Wadden Islands are calling. Take the train, hop a ferry, load your bike, and follow the wind.

Just go.

Let the rhythm of the pedals carry you to places where the roads end—and the adventure begins.